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Cheers Felix! The clinking sound you hear when i turned that is actually the gearbox flange turning, the CV on the prop actually felt pretty sound. The driveshafts have a bit more play than I'd have liked, but not a crazy amount either. It's likely a combination of a lot of small amounts of play adding up to one big clunk. But I suspect the majority of the problem is with the diff, being that they're notorious for it. We will see how it all plays out! 😄

An insurance document is only required for Northern Ireland. This is from the information in the help document they provide. I have never had to send insurance, as I am in England. I hope this helps.

Wish I'd have been pointing the camera at stuff back when I figured all that out. They're Porsche 996 Brembo 4-pot calipers front and rear, paired with CSL discs. If I recall, I'm using Creation Motorsports adapter brackets to make them work. Unfortunately you need to get a couple of mm machined off the caliper mounting faces for a perfect fit. Then braided lines to match. Oh and the rear pad uses a front pad from a different caliper, with a modification to get more full sweep on the disc. Maybe I should do a vid explaining it actually, I'm now remembering there's quite a bit to it. 🤣

Cheers! Yeah the ETA lads know their way around an M3. Really happy with the work they did. I shouldn't have opted for polybushings though in hindsight. 😅 Input seal I will be tackling on whichever diff goes back on, I reckon I can DIY that. You'll see how it works out in the next vid. 😃

Thanks Mr DC2! I didn't know they had a tendency to back out like that, aiming to swap it for OE along with the back plate. The clunks finally getting to me. 😆 Reckon I'll first "quickly" swap in the spare diff to keep the car mobile though, and I'm curious about whether it will be the same.

Cheers! 😃

Thanks for the kind words! Really glad you're enjoying the videos. We've never had a BMW motorcycle in the stable but we can really see the attraction of them. Lovely machines.

Yep, its possible there's an issue with that, the diff has done 117k miles after all. Most common with these though is the right side output shaft develops play. Either way I may need to strip the whole thing down to find out. Lots to learn on this one I think!

Nice idea, I haven't seen those for E46 platform before but I will check that out.

@SPANNERRASH just received mine from Condor Speed Shop, American made. They have them for your set up.

Cheers! You have the same clunk or the same leak? I'm a bit intimidated by rebuilding the M3 diff, but I think I might need to have a go at it. Really don't want to have the M3 down for long over the summer though, hoping to enjoy it! This is partly why I bought a "known good" diff as a spare, swapping that in in the meantime might take the pressure off. 😃

I have no leaks only clunk, big time when I back up and turning corners. When driving straight it is noisy, like bearing and gear noise.

Schims also play a big part if they are worn. I'm the original owner of my 1988 325is 147,000 miles on new motor, body has a little over a million miles. Rebuilt the old motor and sold it.

The 4.10 was used. Only put 6,000 miles on it, going to buy a shell and rebuild a 3.73 since I drive alot on highways.

Just saying, change your axle bolts, and if you ever get any bolt that is hard to remove, use a good quality heat gun, it's the best. Low heat and 30 seconds at a time, just make sure your careful around flammable products, just did my upper brake hoses on the rear, no problem came off without a hitch.

This is the E34 sump but modified to have a shallower pan to avoid hitting it on the ground. I picked it up used and no idea of its origin. Supposedly used more commonly for E21 M5X swaps. 😄 These sumps are now silly expensive here in the UK too.

If they are serviced there is no reason that these bikes can't go on for a long time. They just need a bit of love, or in this case a lot of love :)

I'm nearer to the Humber here. But the closest river is actually called the Gypsey Race, but it's a trickle really :)

Glad it helped. If you are patient and methodical these things aren't too scary. The best tip is take your time, people make most mistakes by rushing. Good luck.

Or two! Ha :)

Not sure what part number you want, but I would buy one of these.. ebay.us/QVX0IB

There are a few schools of thought about it, but I like to rev my car out as its just a fun weekend car, so increasing peak power at high RPMs sounded good. Also the ECU I have is pre-tuned for M50B25 manifold. :D Some people say the M50B20 manifold gives no increase anywhere in the rev range versus standard M52B28 manifold.

I am sorry but I really do not have an authoritative answer for this. However if it was me, and if the car does have a number plate, and is MOTed, Taxed and Insured. I would check on the DVLA systems, MOT, Insured etc on the registration number that I have on the car and if it appears on them I would keep driving, on the basis that I am complying with the legal requirments. These are the same systems that the Police, and others, check as you are driving along, so if the number doesn't appear on it you will get stopped. However I would also contact my insurance and inform them that the DVLA has asked you to do this. I hope this helps.

Your bar heater is broken? How'd that happen?

I bought the blanking plates, and all of the kit to do a PAIR delete. But the more I looked into it the more it looks to be with standard pipes you should leave it alone. Now my bike has settled down from the service, and probably not having been used enough for a few years it runs lovely. The low speed running is fine, even down to 2.5 rpm in highish gears with great pick up when you open the throttle. So for now I do not think I will be dePAIRing, as I don't want to upset .

Awesome, glad the vid was helpful for you! Hope your project is going well.

Hi mate, hope you're enjoying the intake, still love mine. The wheels are reps, bought them a long time ago from CM Wheels, the ones regularly banded around on M3Cutters forum. I think they're a forum sponsor. Generally regarded as good quality. The original BMW CSL wheels are notorious for cracking so to me, they weren't worth the significant extra cost. Hope that helps!

Great idea, but I don't know if my back could take it.

@@SPANNERRASH fair enough haha can’t wait to see this build come together!

Ha, nobody let's you look in barns these days. Unless it is an estate sale. We all want to keep looking though

Thank you!

Cheers Felix! Yeah the position of that oil filter housing is pretty silly, but not as bad as the position of the cabin filter. 😆 I can forgive it though because it's the most economical car I've ever known.

Thanks for that!

I have had a brief go with the two nut method on one of the outer studs, it wasn't for moving. When I get back to looking at this I will have to be a little more assertive with it :)

Thanks for the tip. I realised when I watched the video back that that would be why the manual says to take the tappet covers off. Maybe next time :)

That's a thought :)

@@SPANNERRASH I am on with a 1980 triumph bonneville t14e Loving every minute!!

Sounds like you got a smokin' deal at least! Yeah sadly these Transits are notorious for rust. It's such a shame as they're brilliant vans. You may become a pro with a welder fixing one up. Check out some of our BMW E30 videos for some tips on starting out with the welder. Cheers!

I suspect that a welder will be a good investment! But £200 for a Transit sounds cheap, you have to expect there will be a lot to do at that price.

@@SPANNERRASH not too bad I reckon, chassis is ok, it's more the sills and arches. I've just replaced a drive shaft, ignition coil, turbo inlet pipe and attempted all 4 corners for brakes but I've had to order 2 sets of calipers and brackets because they were like Weetabix 😅 Solid van otherwise, engine and box A1. Thanks for your videos, they are keeping my moral up!

Very likely, once a tinkerer always a tinkerer!

Hi mate, my front fenders are not rolled, although one of them has some big old dents. Are you 100% sure you got E38 style 5s and not from another model. I know other style 5 wheels look the same but have very different offset. The E38 ones are ET23 and you can see exactly how they sit in the vid with no trickery. :D

@@SPANNERRASH I really appreciate you taking the time to reply to my comment… I’m sure it’s the e38 wheels - stamped et23. It’s a bit perplexing 🤔 Yours look great 💯 and I have no doubt you didn’t use some magic - haha. Back to the drawing board for me… If anyone has an idea what could be happening, I’d appreciate the perspective.

@@jrbravo25 No problem at all. Hmm so my theory about it being the wrong wheel seems wrong. Are you also using the SRS Concept front control arm bushings to correct for the new hubs?

Gracias por tus amables palabras. Espero poder mantener la determinación.

Hey Thomas, sounds like our E30s are twins :D Hmm, are you sure you haven't got the shifter the wrong way around? I started with mine the wrong way and the position of it was off, but when I rotated it 180 degrees and buttoned it back up, it was perfect.

Hi thanks for the reply! It sure looks that way :) I've had a play swapped the rod in every combination and still the same so think I'm gonna cut it and weld to the right position for the time being. Many thanks for your help 😊

It's probably why they are loved so much. Every one has a different character, if you don't mind problem solving. I'm hoping to build this one to be reliable, if it isn't when I've done then it will be down to me. But riding one of these and a Honda back to back you can see why the British industry fell off a cliff.

@@SPANNERRASH there is a difference between unreliability,poor quality and character. I have had my Triumph TR-6 with a hard tail and magneto for 40 years. She is reliable and dependable transportation and has plenty of character. I have had my Sportster for 25 years and has plenty of character while being reliable and dependable transportation as well.

Thank you very much! I do hope it has been helpful for you.

I have come across a lot of locked engines in the past, where the pistons are seized in the bore. This is my first one with the head stuck on. Always something new to keep you interested.

The biggest problem is having an oven large enough to fit things in. If you have an oven that it will fit in then you can powder coat it. You have to get it to the right temperature for the powder to melt and fuse to the item. We keep thinking of making a bigger oven so that we can do frames, but haven't got around to it. Good luck.

I'll do my best, but we will intersperse it with our car and other bike videos, why not watch them as well?

Glad you enjoyed it. We love the finish you can get with powder.

You seem to be doing much better than me. Have you tried putting the head and barrel in an oven for a while? Heat it to 250c or so for an hour, then let it cool. Maybe cycle it a few times. This is what I am thinking of trying. I hope it doesn't come to machining the studs out. Let me know how you go on. Good luck.

Yes, it is all a bit rudimentary. Maybe that is what give them a personality and a bit of soul :)

750 Triumph Bonnievilles with the double down tube frame were known for vibration not only because of the twin carbs instead of the single carb versions. 1970's British motorcycles were known for problems left ,right and center. Such a sad ending to a once great industry😢.

To be honest I am not sure. If you watch the video again around the 5 minute section the bottom of the barrels where the oil drain comes through is different. If one of these oil passage ways through the barrel is blocked where it joins the crankcase is blocked off then it will stop oil draining properly from the head. You will need to check your crankcases to see if this would be an issue. If you look at video no 19 in the playlist for this bike around minute 11 it looks like my engine does have the right openings on the crankcase, but I don't know if this is true for all later engines. Good luck.

@@SPANNERRASH thank you!

Moisture seems to get into all of the box sections so trying to completely seal them all doesn't seem possible. Ford couldn't manage it :) I try to spray rust preventative wax into every hole that I can find, on a reasonably regular basis, at least once a year or so. The sooner you start doing that in the life of the vehicle the more successful it will be. That and fixing the places where the rust does get a hold seems to be the only strategy. Good luck.

Not sure what you mean about the studs. The do seem to be stainless, and the outer ones have replaced the usual bolts that are there usually.

@@SPANNERRASH looks like your bike has 4 studs with nuts versus the other video has bolts which come out totally..

@@SPANNERRASH check out your video at 31:26 mark. The 4 large head bolts you have are studs with nuts..Lunmad video shows 4 large bolts with head attached..if that makes sense

@@SPANNERRASH look at the video closely..stay cool

Good advice. I am soaking with penetrating oil every couple of days. If I am tapping with a hammer, I am using a block of wood, and I am not being too extreme.